Hotel review: Is this West Cork property the perfect coastal escape for food lovers?

Location

Just a few minutes from the bustle of Clonakilty, yet a serene world apart, Dunmore House sits on a panoramic headland overlooking Inchydoney, Clonakilty Bay, and some of the easternmost shores of the Wild Atlantic Way.

The property, which has been run by three generations of the O’Donovan-Barrett family since 1948, has evolved from its original country house roots into a sophisticated seafront accommodation flanked by cliff, ocean and organic kitchen gardens. It even has its own secret beach.

• 9/10

Style & design

Architecturally, Dunmore harmonises nicely with the local landscape and seascapes while, with that grey and white palette, its gables and fenced veranda, the beach house style property wouldn’t look out of place along the shores of Cape Cod.

Inside, a fine reception area is flanked by an inviting lounge with plush chairs, splashes of contemporary art and squeaky-clean glazing framing picture-perfect ocean views. 

Between the traditional yet smart bar, guests have multiple charming nooks to enjoy a glass of Chablis or a hot port.

A newer addition to Dunmore is a gorgeous sea terrace featuring its Boatshed pizza option for casual, yet aesthetic dining.

There’s a hint of The Cliff of Ardmore here with the dramatic east-facing aspect and fine ambience and Dunmore all feels — down to the smart signposting throughout — like a thoroughly considered property.

• 9/10

Service

Service is intuitive, polished, and wonderfully grounded. After arriving well ahead of check-in time to take some pictures, I’m offered a beach towel (in a smart Dunmore tote bag) by Miriam Rea at check-in which immerses me in the hotel’s unplugged joie de vivre a little ahead of schedule.

A young team of staff at breakfast are charming and confident, while owner Carol Barrett, who grew up in the property, brings a joyous energy in welcoming guests.

• 9/10

Guest rooms

Dunmore offers 30 rooms, the majority of which deliver superb Atlantic views, with standard rooms in the original core of the hotel overlooking fields to the rear.

I stayed in a superior ocean view room which was an immaculate, spacious room with an extremely comfortable bed and a fresh-looking wet room with a shower and Voya products.

I find the grey palette and elements like the Scandi-style reading lights a little sterile but there are warm, textured touches from nicely upholstered armchairs, art and a John Hanley throw. 

A copy of Milk by John and Sally McKenna is a nice staging element. It’s worth noting that sea views are met by the hotel’s car park as you near the room’s windows, so discretion is advised while walking around — the particularly fluffy branded Dunmore robes come in handy.

• 8/10

In-room perks

Nespresso and tea machines with bottled well water.

• 7/10

On the menu

For freshness, flavour, and value, dining at Dunmore House truly is one of the best in my books. Guests have the pick of the hotel’s attractive bar alongside its sea view Adrift restaurant, a wonderfully elevated dining experience

I dined at the latter and began with a starter of Union Hall lobster which has just been announced as dish of the month by the Michelin Guide; its sweet, pink tail and claw meat dressed simply with tomato water, fresh garden herbs and violas is sublime. 

My main, John Dory with parsnips and artichokes, is served with generous sides of rainbow garden vegetables and new potatoes, quickly dolloped in butter.

For dessert, I opted for fresh organic fruits with a local gelato; this all for €69 felt like a very decently priced meal given the standard and setting.

I must mention the novel rarity for this coeliac of not one, but two, freshly baked gourmet gluten free breads offered.

Breakfast is an equally pleasant affair, offering a fresh buffet as well as a menu. I ordered a delicious fillet of plaice served with garden greens.

• 9/10

Activities & Amenities

Guests can enjoy a wander around the marigold-infused kitchen garden and meander down to the private beach.

There are no amenities on-site as such — it would seem like a very on-brand evolution for the property to include some wellness offerings.

• 8/10

Checking in

The Bill? B&B for two from €220

• Dunmore House Hotel
• Clonakilty, Co. Cork
• dunmorehousehotel.ie
• Thom Breathnach was a guest of Dunmore House